Hamamatsu to Wakayama

Yep, I’m back in Japan for another cycling trip.  The original plan was to cycle from Tokushima to Fukuoka via Kagoshima, bit it didn’t turn out like that… still I had another great cycling journey to remember.

As I was riding to the Hamamatsu station to catch the shinkansen to Osaka… I decided I felt like riding more (and not be stuck on a train) so a late change of plan was to just start cycling from Hamamatsu… only an extra 300kms or so.

The Otori at Hamako and the major route 1 highway - which I avoided.

The heavy traffic died down after the Nagoya turn off  and I had a pleasant if not spectacular first day’s ride of 90 kms to cape Irago where I would catch the ferry in the morning.

Camped next to the sea near the ferry port

Mozzy trying to get in

The next morning I caught the ferry for the 1 hour trip across to Toba

On the ferry to Toba

View from the ferry

From there it was along the coast for about 10 kms then towards the mountains of Mie.

The Husband and wife rocks

Next I stopped at one of the most famous shrines in all of Japan.  Ise Jingu…

One of the shrines at Ise Jingu

I spent most of the next two hours getting lost and looking for a 100 yen shop to buy a map. Then it was west into the countryside . I couldn’t help but notice how green everything was after the recent rainy season.

Mie contryside

I was hoping to make it too a campsite with a nearby onsen but took a wrong turn along the way so ended up camping on a small section of turf in a tiny town that luckily also had an onsen.

Overnight camp in Mie - nothing fancy but did the job

The next day’s ride was up into the mountains of Mie and then down to Wakayama-ken

Found the park I should have camped at just after leaving

I Also noticed this sign telling me exactly how far I had come from Hamamatsu.

161 kms from Hamamatsu (plus another 30 from getting lost)

As is usually the case in Japan, the further you get into the mountains the less traffic there is and the better the scenery becomes.

An old railway bridge

The first real climb of the trip - the road was narrow so there was plenty of shade - a good thing when it's a humid 33 degrees.

At the top of the first pass

Crystal clear stream running alongside the road

There was one more punishing climb before reaching the summit and crossing over into Wakayama prefecture

Almost to the top - Looking out over the mountains of Mie

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To be completed…

Yes I did complete my journey from Fukuoka to Tokyo, but didn’t get around to completing the blog for the rest of the journey. It took a lot more time than I had anticipated.

I still plan to upload the rest of my photo’s from the trip but it will have to wait for now as I have just completed another cycling trip in japan, this time from Hamamatsu in shizuoka, through Shikoku and then to Onomichi.

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Day 11 – Onomichi to Hakatashima – Island hopping fun over the Shimani Kaido bridges

Kame woke me up at 7:30 on the dot just as promised, and dropped me off back where I had left Shirley (the bike) the night before.


Kame and his Aussie style thumbs up!

I was looking forwards to today’s ride. I would be traveling along the shimanami kaido, an 80 km route passing through 6 islands via a series of massive suspension bridges, the largest of which is almost 6km long, and would ultimately  lead me to the third major island of my trip, Shikoku.


The Shimanami Kaido route to Shikoku

Although there are two other bridge systems connecting japan’s main Island of Honshu to Shokoku, this is the only one allowing cyclists, and is a very popular day trip for cyclists all over japan.

Although the first and shortest of the bridges does allow cyclists there is no dedicated path and it was recommended to take the short ferry ride across to Makaishima

On the Ferry

On the ferry - Why waste time brushing hair when you'll be wearing a helmet anyway?

The cycling route was extremely well marked out with large green arrows painted on the ground and I was soon at the first bridge connecting the island of Innoshima.

innoshima bridge

bridge to innoshima

Unfortunately the bike path ran underneath the main road which meant there was a fence and the framework between me and the view.

caged in

felt a bit caged in

Still, the view was pretty good all the same.


View from innoshima bridge

On Innoshima I stumbled upon a Sunday market next to the beach. Behind a large crowd of people I found a sushi chef hacking up a whole tuna.


Sashimi - Yep I know what your thinking... that tuna head looks mighty tasty!

I was no match for the large group of mostly retirees and failed to fight my way to the counter to secure the prize of freshly hacked tuna so had to settle for some fried sweet potato on a stick.

As each of the bridges were so high up there was a reasonably steep climb up along a bike (and scooter) path to reach the entrance.  It was nothing too steep though and quite enjoyable.

bike pathe to bridge

Windy bike path leading up to the bridge

The next bridge lead to the island of Ikuchijima. I liked the clean design of this one.

Ikuchijima bridge

Ikuchijima bridge and a pesky power pole spoiling my photo

The bike path was up on top of the bridge this time, which meant some great, uninterrupted views over the sea and nearby islands.

bridge view

View from Ikuchijima bridge

I stopped for a quick photo on the bridge. Please excuse the Lycra, it’s not going to win me any fashion awards but at it’s comfy when cycling.

another bridge

Me on a bridge rockin the spandex... yeah!!!

On the island of Ikuchijima I stumbled across a small town with a large temple complex that seemed to be popular judging by the masses of tour buses parked nearby.

The place was huge and was built by a wealthy businessman from Osaka who became deeply religious after his mother passed away.  You could see more of an Indian, Buddhist influence with a more flamboyant style, bordering on outright kitsch in some places,  such as this massive wooden statue that must have been around 20 meters high.

Big statue

A big statue

Still, the quality in both the design and craftsmanship was easily apparent.

big red shrine

A big red shrine

The adjoining Japanese style garden was also quality stuff

Beaut garden

A beaut garden

And some nice rock carvings. The fella in this one looks like a top bloke.


Friendly rock man

Yep, it’s safe to say that the guy who built this was no half stepper. There was even a massive sculpted park built entirely of marble shipped all the way from Italy. Personally I found this area pretty tasteless, but the Japanese visitors seemed to love it.


Would you like some marble with your marble?

There was also an Italian cafe which was of course built of marble, so I dropped in for a pizza and glass of red, but to my disappointment, and as is usually the case in Japan, the red wine was served cold straight out of the fridge… criminal! …at least it didn’t come with ice I suppose.

pizza and cold wine

Pizza and icy cold wine!

Next it was over to Omishima island and a nice ride along the coast before heading over yet another bridge to Hakatajima, where I found a nice beach, and as it looked like rain was on the way decided to set up camp there.

As I went to the nearby Kombini I met a Swiss couple who are taking the same route across Japan as me, only in the opposite direction. The guy even gave me a detailed map book from the area he had passed. Not sure if he was being friendly or just happy to lose some weight from his load which looked a lot heavier than mine.

Swiss cyclists

Swiss cyclists taking on the "length of Japan" challenge - Good on em!

As the rain set in I set up camp, looking forwards to enjoying the rest of the Shimani kaido path tomorrow.

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Day 10 – Takehara to Onomichi – Great views and some of the friendliest people in the world

Deciding to camp on the beach was a winner of an idea as the sand underneath made my thin camping mattress feel like an emperor’s futon. Check out the great view out over the Seto inland sea I woke up to.

Beach camp

While I was packing up my gear I met Kenji san, a kayaker who was setting up to head to a nearby island. He was now retired and told me that he enjoys kayaking in his free time. I don’t blame him. I think I would take up kayaking as well if I lived in this areas as there are small islands dotted everywhere that are only accessible by boat.

Kenji was very friendly and his English surprisingly good. I tried to pass off my other tent to him, but he declined (don’t blame him) so I ended up having to throw it in the bin.

Here’s kenji and his kayak and one of the islands he was heading to in the background.

Kenji the Kayaker

Kenji also has a blog which I was able to check out a few days latter and I was impressed at the photo’s of some of the places he has been Kayaking. I hope that when I’m retired I’m as active as he is.

And here’s me trying to be a kayaker.

Will the Kayaker

I'm a kayaker

After packing up I rode back to check out the area of Takehara with traditional style Japanese streets and houses. I learned from the locals that a number of Samaria dramas are filmed in this area.


A street in Takehara

And some hay hanging outside a building

Hanging hey

Hanging hay

And me hanging out side a building

Me in Takehara

Some fun with reflections

And I’m not so sure if this is in the traditional Japanese style

Pissing boy skulpture

A charming sculpture

Before leaving I tried to be a real Samurai…. How did I do?

real samurai

I'm a real samurai!!!

Just after setting off I managed to get two flat tiers within 30 minutes. It slowed me down a bit but the good news is that I’m now an expert tier changer. Today’s ride was easy and flat with more great scenery of the nearby islands.

seto secenery

One of the many islands of the Seto inland sea

I reached my destination, the town of Onomichi by four and after a quick refuel at the local Ramen shop headed up the very steep hillside to look for a place to camp. Onomichi is famous for it’s temples, museums and parks all located upon this steep hill.



At the top I wasn’t able to find to many good places to camp but the scenery was awesome…

Sunset in Onomichi

View from the top of the Onomichi hilllside

…and I was just in time to catch a great sunset.

Onomichi sunset

Onomichi's Sunset

After a relaxing bath at the local onsen I found a small Teppanyaki izakaya, which looked busy so I went in and took a seat at the counter. Sitting next to me was Kame, an Onomichi local who was having dinner and drinks with a couple of his workmates.

Kame from Onomichi

Kame, his workmates and I at the Teppenyaki - Giday!

Kame worked on a larger container ship, and despite not being able to speak any English he was supper friendly.  He even shouted me this great tasting tuna sashimi.


Tuna Sashimi

When I told Kame and his mates I was planning on camping in the park at the top of the hill they had a good old laugh, and Kame offered to let me crash at his place for the night. Before leaving he even payed my entire bill despite me repeatedly attempting to pay myself – he was having none of it, so I told him I would return to Onomichi one day to shout him dinner.

Had  a great night’s sleep in the spare room at kame’s place… much better than camping, and a great preparation for tomorrow’s ride, island hopping over a series of massive suspension bridges and what has been described as one of the best 1 day cycling routs in the world.

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Day 9 – Hiroshima to Takehara – A steep pass to Seto inland sea and my first crash

After checking out of Hotel Intelligence (great name, I know), I rode over to the peace memorial park to get my bike in order for today’s ride. I met a guy from Sapporo who is also touring by bike. He had ridden from Tokyo on a “mama chari” or what would be known in Australia as a “girls bike”.

mama chari

Tokyo to okinawa on a mama chari!!!

Hi is planning to ride all the way to okinawa – crazy stuff. There was also this guy who I think wasn’t touring but was homeless. Still, the load he was carrying was quite impressive. Respect!

Nice load

Fully loaded

In the background of this photo is the famous Atomic dome. One of the few building left standing after the atomic bomb.

Atomic Dome

Atomic dome, Hiroshima

Heading out of Hiroshima I had to make a mountain pass which provided some of the steepest hills yet. A 10 percent incline in some sections.



The road was very narrow and surprisingly busy, with plenty of traffic, meaning I had to stop often to let vehicles pass. I didn’t mind to much as I could do with the rest, and as I neared the summit was greeting with gestures of encouragement from passing motorists and truck drivers.

After a couple of hours of hard toil, it was down hill all the way to the Seto inland sea, famous for it’s bountiful amounts of sea food and small fishing communities.

fishing village

Fishing boats along the shore line

As it was beginning to get dark I rolled into my destination. The small coastal town of Takehara.  After dinner, I found a great beach for camping just out of town.  Attempting to turn as the gravel changed to sand I managed to crash my fully loaded bike into a sign leaving a bump the size of an egg on my elbow. It hurt like crazy but luckily there was no major damage to ether me or the bike.


Yes, that is my elbow, with a nice bump.

Had a great night’s sleep on the soft sand before tomorrow’s ride to Onomichi, and the gateway to the southern island of Shokoku.


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Day 6 – Iwakuni to Hiroshima – World heritage Miyajima island and 2 flat tyres in the middle of a freeway

On the way to the drink machine for my morning coffee I saw a sign saying there was no camping allowed in the park. Whoops, no one seemed to mind too much.

No camping

No Camping - I didn't see nuffin!

I then took a few moments to admire Kintai-kyo one more time. The bridge was originally built in 1673, and uses a locally pioneered binding technique that does not use one nail throughout the entire bridge. Each of the arcs are now replaced every 20 years, primarily to ensure that this technique is passed down to each successive generation.

kin kai kyo

The five wooden arches of Kintai-kyo

Today’s ride was to be relatively easy, just 40 kms along the route 2 into the city of Hiroshima.  After the amazing mountain scenery of yesterday’s ride, today along the route 2 I was greeted to this…


today's scenery- Some smog

After about 20 kms through the morning rush, and in which I was actually faster that the cars and trucks I reached the port to take a short ferry across to Miyajima, an extremely famous world heritage listed island.


Itsukushima Shrine

Itsukushima shrine is unique in that it is built on the low lying sure line meaning that at high tide it appears to be floating on the water. I had been here 5 years ago during the low tide, so was lucky to have caught high tide this time.


Itsukushima's famous "floating" torii (gate)

The island of Miyajima is also home to a legion of Shika (Wild deer) who are quite happy to roam the streets and mingle with the tourists.   I made friends with this fella.


Init cute!

baby shika

More cuteness! ...Mother and baby shika

These cheeky deer are like goats… they will eat anything… Including paper.

bad shika


After doing the tourist thing and checking out all the shrines I took Shirley (the bike) for a spin and came across a steep road leading up into the mountain. I knew I had a rest day tomorrow so I thought “why not”. After a steep climb I was rewarded with a nice view over the sea.

Mountian of Miyajima

View from the mountians of Miyajima

After catching the ferry back to the mainland I began what was to be an easy 25 km ride into the city of Hiroshima. After about 10km of riding along the route 2 I found my self riding up into a freeway that I have a feeling wasn’t ment for the use of cyclists. All of a sudden the trucks were zooming past me at twice the speed and I had to concentrate on keeping to the tiny elbow of the road. I got used to it fairly quickly, so when I saw a turnoff I was in two minds on weather to turn off or continue on the free way for the last 5 km…Big mistake… I started turning off then decided to continue. As I was turning back on, I hit a jagged reflector sticking up from the road.

50 meters later I realized I was stranded in the middle of the freeway with not one… but TWO flat tires.  After one of those “what on earth am I going to to now” moments I realized I had no other choice but to ride my bike with two flat tires to the nearest exit.

Luckily it wasn’t to far away, then I made my way to a park for the repair work.


Yes... I do know how to change a flat tire... I think

It took a while but contrary to what my parents believe, I actually do now how to fix a flat tire. I noticed some of the local kids in the park spying on me from behind a bush.   Once I had fixed my bike I played Frisbee and some baseball with them. They were really cute, and when it was time to leave they even helped pick up my bags (which were quite heavy and twice their size) to give to me.

kids in the park

Friends from the park

On the outskirts of Hiroshima I noticed a strange store on the opposite side of the road.  Australian Garden Corner! Notice the stylish statues out the front. I should have gone in to take a look around but it was getting dark so I continued along my way

Aussie garden

Aussie garden corner - Bloody gorgeous!

After what turned out to be quite a long day I finally rolled into Hiroshima, checked into a hotel and pretty much crashed.

Hiroshima river

Early evening in Hiroshima

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Day 5 – Nichihara to Iwakuni – An awsome ride through the contryside

Camping on top of mount Mukarase, it got pretty cold overnight, but I got through it with a few layers of thermals. As you can see I had a nice little spot for my tent.


Camp at Mt mukarase

I got up at 7:30 and decided to take a walk up to the nearby star gazing center (basically a big telescope on a hill). The colorful map at the camp grounds made it seem like it was 50 meters or so away. Actually it was a 30 minute hike up some crazily steep slopes and the walk alone pretty much used up all the juice I had in my legs for the days ride.


Steep climb!

At the top I found a drink machine for my morning coffee though by the look of this photo I still needed a few more.

mukarase stare gazing

Morning... eh ar eh ... yeah

Back at the camp while setting up the gear the campground care taker came around. I gave him the 400 yen fee and had a chat to him about where I was going. When I asked about the steepness of today’s ride, he even drew up a consice diagram showing each hill and it’s precises gradient. One of the hooks had also broken on a pannier so he lent me some of his tools to bend a new hook into shape.

On the way down from Mt Mukarase along the road that nobody (except me) uses I took a photo of the landslide.


I began riding along the route to Iwakuni, next to a ripper of a river. The water was crystal clear and as the day kept heating up I seriously began thinking about jumping in for a dip.


Up for a dip?

The river was running in the oposite direction to me but it felt like I was riding down hill. Not sure what was going on there. I guess the massive 30 k climb yesterday has thrown my compas (or spirit level) off.

I stopped on a bridge overlooking this scenic town for about 15 minutes just soaking it up. This area of Japan is said to have one of the oldest populations, with 35 percent of the population over 65. Actaully I don’t even think I saw one person under 65!

Nice villageAfter about 40 kms of a gradual incline. That I actually thought was a decline, I hit a tunnel and new it was down hill all the way to iwakuni. Got some serious speed up running downhill through some pretty thick forest.

Stopped at a supermarket for lunch and got this sashimi for 300 yen – Bargain!


OK... so maybe it doesn't look the best... but the taste was tops!

After another 2 hours of downhill funness I rolled into the town of Iwakuni, still blown away from the scenery of todays ride. Easilly the best day yet. Iwakuni is famouse for an arked bridge that is said to be built entirely of wood. There’s a great park nearby so I grabbed a local Yamaguchi bear and some fried squid and kicked back on a bench to enjoy.


Beer, squid and a bridge!

Tried to hunt down an onsen for a bath but when I found it, it looked like it had closed down, so just grabbed some yakiudon and a cup of nihonshu (sake) to take out before setting up camp in the park.

Tomorrow… back to urbaness… the city of Hiroshima!


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